The original plan was to be away for a month, but life is too good in Costa Rica, so I stayed for an extra 2 weeks to surf myself out completely. Its been my second home for the past 11 years and after spending the better part of a year away, returning really made me understand why I’ve invested so much time in the place.
My friends, the nature, the food, the vibe, the lifestyle, the waves. The waves have been epic this year – we had four overhead swells in January… It almost brought back memories of when we first bought our property there back in 2005; when the winter West Northwesterly’s would reach us, followed and joined by an even bigger Southwest resulting in frequent solid surfs at the reefs even throughout the summer months.
A day in Santa Teresa:
I have a really cool room there. Since the house was built with forms and designs of those similar to a ship, my room has a captains wheel which opens the roof revealing the stars and heavens above. Apart from the aesthetics, it also forces you to wake up with the sun.
My day starts around 5am
Water, water, water then coconut water
Coffee + work
Any fruit and a banana + greens, Hemp Protein, Macca powder, Spirulina, Wheatgrass, Oats & Cacao. Based on either Oatly or water.
A long warm up – Go surf from 6-9am.
A big breakfast of eggs, rice and beans, avocado, plantains and more coconut water.
Surf again from 10 until the wind goes onshore.
Training – Stretch.
Hang out with loved ones.
Sunset session from 4-6pm
Dinner at 7
In bed by 8.30.
Im now in London visiting my Father en route to Sweden. Looking forward seeing everybody, longing to come home; sensing the Baltic love lurking around the corner.