I choose to avoid milk for 3 reasons: My health – I find it slows me down and increases inflammation in my body. I had an inflammation disease when I was 19 which left me bedridden for 6 months. I changed my diet completely and dairy products were amongst the first to go. I had […]
72 hours without milk…
Giants & the fire tree…
We left Stockholm at around 11pm… What excited me the most was that if everything went to plan, we’d arrive at 01.30am and potentially be paddling out at 03.00am… Getting tubed at 3.05am with the sunrise and the peak of the swell. It’s magical having enough light to surf so early in the day. This session marked the commence […]
Klon
Full story coming soon. For now here’s one of Jeff’s collages from the other day at Klon.
Costa Rica & The 27 club.
It’s funny how sometimes it all just falls into place. I’ve been here just shy of a month and it’s been eventful… It began with literally landing into tubes; my first wave is still the best since I got here, I’ve spent quality times with loved ones, we’ve had old friends visit from all over […]