Sunset, Lombok.

Desert Point.
Photo – Thiago Okazuka

Desert Point.
Photo – Thiago Okazuka

The Legian

BALI
Photo – @thetropicalviking

BALI
Photo – @thetropicalviking

BALI
Photo – @thetropicalviking

BALI
Photo – @thetropicalviking

BALI
Photo – @thetropicalviking

BALI
Photo – @thetropicalviking

Villa Nord – as usual.

I left Stockholm on Thursday the 3rd, had charismatic night in London and then met up with the other Fred in NYC.

We made a late arrival in San Jose that night and passed out at the Hampton Inn. The next morning we embarked on the final leg of our journey to the happy place.

Photos by Fredrik Skogkvist & me.

06:00 – Hampton Inn Airport Hotel –  San Jose, Costa Rica – The best we could get.

06:30 – An overpriced hotel room – Never had this moment documented before

07:10 – SJO INTL – Awaiting the pilot that had forgotten us. We called, he woke up and arrived an hour late.

07:50 SJO INTL, Hidden hangar – I cleared security.

07:55 – The other Freddie. A great friend.

08:10 – Pura Vida

08:11 – Crowded lineup…

08:25 – Focussed.

08:30 –  A sense of freedom

08:32 – Excited & exhausted

08:35 – A room with a view. Fred got the co-pilot seat which made me nervous until I figured he could totally land this thing…

08:40 – TOUCHDOWN

09:20 – The glorious Casa Capitan

09:30 – out there…

Doing this every day for the next 3 weeks is such a blessing.

A monumental moment – The boys first sunset.

We even hung out with BIG ledge Peter Sahlberg from Surfakademin. It was a good day.

The original plan was to be away for a month, but life is too good in Costa Rica, so I stayed for an extra 2 weeks to surf myself out completely. Its been my second home for the past 11 years and after spending the better part of a year away, returning really made me understand why I’ve invested so much time in the place.

My friends, the nature, the food, the vibe, the lifestyle, the waves. The waves have been epic this year – we had four overhead swells in January… It almost brought back memories of when we first bought our property there back in 2005; when the winter West Northwesterly’s would reach us, followed and joined by an even bigger Southwest resulting in frequent solid surfs at the reefs even throughout the summer months.

A day in Santa Teresa:

I have a really cool room there. Since the house was built with forms and designs of those similar to a ship, my room has a captains wheel which opens the roof revealing the stars and heavens above. Apart from the aesthetics, it also forces you to wake up with the sun.

My day starts around 5am

Water, water, water then coconut water

Coffee + work

Smoothie:

Any fruit and a banana + greens, Hemp Protein,  Macca powder, Spirulina, Wheatgrass, Oats & Cacao. Based on either Oatly or water.

A long warm up – Go surf from 6-9am.

A big breakfast of eggs, rice and beans, avocado, plantains and more coconut water.

Surf again from 10 until the wind goes onshore.

Training – Stretch.

Hang out with loved ones.

Siesta…

Sunset session from 4-6pm

Dinner at 7

In bed by 8.30.

Im now in London visiting my Father en route to Sweden. Looking forward seeing everybody, longing to come home; sensing the Baltic love lurking around the corner.

I hopped on the redeye flight from Bali to the distant shores of Sumatra where I rendezvoused with great friends Uncle Jonas and  Jacob Wester. The one session we documented looked like this…

Photos by Steven Waycott & Jacob Wester.

Photography by Al Mackinnon, Linus  Elliasson & myself.