It’s funny how sometimes it all just falls into place. I’ve been here just shy of a month and it’s been eventful… It began with literally landing into tubes; my first wave is still the best since I got here, I’ve spent quality times with loved ones, we’ve had old friends visit from all over the world, I turned 27, I’ve become ambassador for a very special brand and now, with 4 days remaining, it looks like we’ll be surfing some of the best waves we’ve seen down here for a while… I say roll with it.
Photography by Al Mackinnon, Linus Elliasson & myself.