Moving through the islands, Happy to be alive, Good to world class waves on a daily basis, Life altering pits, Welcoming people, Old friends, Delicious cuisine, Motorbikes, Taxis, Traffic, Plastic, Pollution, Corruption, Immense beauty, Power, Sacred lands, Longing, Missing, Indonesia. Sunset, Lombok. Desert Point. Photo – Thiago Okazuka Desert Point. Photo – Thiago Okazuka The […]
INDO
We made it
One forgets how much of a mission it is to get here… I guess thats a good thing. I left Stockholm on Thursday the 3rd, had charismatic night in London and then met up with the other Fred in NYC. We made a late arrival in San Jose that night and passed out at the […]
Warmth
The original plan was to be away for a month, but life is too good in Costa Rica, so I stayed for an extra 2 weeks to surf myself out completely. Its been my second home for the past 11 years and after spending the better part of a year away, returning really made me understand why […]
Sumatra – The Land of Thunder
I hadn’t been back to Indo for 2 years… For any surfer, Indonesia has a magnetic effect. Whether it be due to the mesmerising video sections, picturesque images in magazines, magical memories from previous encounters with the mechanical almost man made reef set ups that bless the corners of almost every bay… The list of […]